Calling my Number – Horse Ringtones for your Mobile

In the sea of cell phone rings, I wanted one that 1) stood out from the others and 2) in some regard reflected my interests. I was tired of reaching for my own phone when a similar ring sounded and I’m just not someone who wants to hear a few bars of the latest rap tune every time someone calls me.

I decided to find one with an equine theme. The trouble was, most of the horsey tones sound like the tone that emerges from a squeezy horse toy. Not what I had in mind. Not to mention, some of the ringtones are described as horse “whining”, which I assume is a cross between a whinny and a whine!

First, a bit about ringtones:

polyphonic ringtone plays multiple instruments from a MIDI file at the same time, making the ringtone sound like music.

monophonic ringtone plays composed of simple tones being played one at a time.

A note of caution before you begin to download: Ringtones, while fun and cool, are also used by scammers to either get you to sign up for a subscription (for which you’ll end up paying a monthly fee) or to embed a virus in your phone which will gather your personal information. Therefore, it’s a good idea to avoid any service that asks you to “sign up” and make sure you read the fine print for any offer. Don’t download a free ringtone unless you are sure the source is a good one, and avoid peer-to-peer sharing sites. Most ringtones cost only a couple of dollars, so it’s worth paying for them.

Horse and Hound, the U.K. magazine also offers a selection of ringtones, including a “true hunting horn.” That sounds appealing, but I’m not sure I want to pay the international connection charges.

HorseChannel.com offers several free ringtones of the snorting and nickering variety.

There are a lot of whinnying horse ringtones, although many of the listings I saw, said Whining. I guess that’s a cross between a whinny and a whine, which is what your horse may say when you are late serving a meal!

AudioSparx offers a nice selection of galloping, trotting and horses on cobblestones, all for a reasonable cost.

Del Mar Racetrack offers two free ringtones: “Call to Post” and “Where the Surf meets the Turf”. I suspect these would be pretty safe, but I haven’t tried them.

Personally, I chose to use the “Call to Post” bugle ringtone from PhoneZoo. I bought it quite a while ago and have had no problems with it. The ringtone definitely stands out in a crowd. And I generally get a few people who shout out “Suffolk Downs” when they hear it go off.

My Big Brown Moment – Wishing for High Tech Hoof Repair

Last week, during the torrential thunderstorm that swept through the area, one of my horses managed to pull both front shoes. After a spring that was characterized by alternating wet (think standing in mud) and dry, his feet weren’t in great shape. For the last two shoeing cycles, my farrier had patched his feet together to keep the shoes in place.

When he pulled them a lot of hoof wall went too. Basically, there was nothing left to nail to. Of course, if it were Big Brown’s owners, I’d have the resources to rebuild his hoof with the latest and greatest technology. But my horse isn’t anything like a famous race horse and my farrier isn’t stopping by daily. He likes to live outside 24/7, only venturing into his stall to escape the heat. And my finances will not allow for the materials or the extra care required to maintain that type of patching.

When you are dealing with a hoof that has become so brittle, I think probably the best thing to do is just pull the shoes and let the hoof wall regrow. Certainly, he did far more damage by pulling the shoe (and taking part of his hoof with it) than he would by going barefoot for a few cycles.

So, having trimmed up his feet, discussing it with my farrier and vet, that’s what we’re going to try. His front feet already look better and with some care and some Easy Boot Bare boots, I’m hoping that we can encourage the growth of better horn (without the nail holes to weaken them)

I’ll report back on his progress as it goes along. I’m just grateful that his happened during our “off season” — after spring hunting and before the fall begins!

Evaluating Saddle Fit: Gullet Width

The gullet of a saddle is the channel that runs down the center of the underside of a saddle, in between the panels. The gullet bridges the horse’s spine so it is an important part of the saddle design. If the gullet is narrow, it can pinch the muscles on either side of the spine which ultimately will make your horse’s back stiff or sore. The horse’s spine is where the nerves of the back are located; to prevent the saddle from impinging on these nerves, the gullet needs to be wide enough to distribute the weight of the rider on the horse’s muscle.

Many people confuse Tree Size with Gullet Width. Tree is a completely different measurement: it refers to the distance between the bottom of the points of the tree. This measurement is either described in centimeters or as medium, medium/wide, etc.  Please note that these excellent descriptive photos are from: How to Measure an English Saddle. The rest of the photos are mine, but these just illustrated the concepts more clearly.

I think that part of the confusion between tree size and gullet width is due to the popularity of the Wintec saddles with interchangeable gullets. The concept promotes the idea that by interchanging the “gullets” you can adjust a saddle from a narrow tree size to an extra wide. And you can. But the Wintec gullets are inserted into the front of the saddle and they change the angle of the tree — and may change the front part of the gullet slightly. If you look at the photo on the left, imagine that the inverted “V” is either narrower or wider. In some saddles, the saddle gullet is wider at the pommel end and narrows over the length of the saddle.

In fact, there are saddles where the gullet becomes very narrow indeed. In the photo below are two saddles: an old Hermes close contact saddle and a recent model County cross country saddle (the Extreme). They are both medium trees, according to their manufacturers, but they are different sizes. The Hermes is a 16.5″ and the County is an 18″.

As you can see, on the Hermes saddle, the gullet narrows significantly as it approaches the back of the saddle. In fact, you can barely fit two fingers in the gullet of the Hermes.

In comparison, the County has a nice wide gullet. In fact, you can comfortably fit three fingers in the gullet. I’ve read that the “three finger” rule is a good starting point for gullet width, although each horse is different.

The implications of this difference comes when you look at the saddle on a horse. The model here is my 17 year old Trakehner gelding, Kronefurst. The first photo shows the Hermes. You can see that the gullet offers barely any clearance over the spine and the panels sit very close to the spine and will not distribute a rider’s weight effectively.

In comparison, look how nicely the County clears Kroni’s spine.  The panels sit very nicely on his back and will distribute a rider’s weight very well. And they should! I have my saddles checked and fitted by a professional saddle fitter at least once a year.

Given that narrow gullets can impinge on a horse’s spine, why do manufacturer’s make them this way? One rational for making the gullet narrow is for rider comfort. Many people like riding in a saddle with a narrow “twist”, and some saddle manufacturers simply bring the panels closer together toward the back of the saddle to accomplish this. However, it’s not nearly so comfortable for your horse!

Can a gullet be too wide? Yes, if it reduces the size of the panels to the point where they can no longer adequately distribute the rider’s weight. This is a fairly unusual; it is more typical for gullets to be too narrow.

No Hoof, No Horse – Did a Loose Shoe Cost Big Brown the Belmont?P

Photos of the Belmont Stakes recently published clearly show that Big Brown’s right hind shoe was partially pulled off after a collision at the start. Close up photos clearly show the shoe hanging down.

This slide show shows the progression. Check out photo #3 which shows Guadalcanal stepping on Big Brown. I can’t believe the jockey stayed on for that move. Imagine sitting that with your stirrup leathers only a foot long!

Certainly, it would have bothered my horses to have that shoe protruding, so it’s not out of the question that it through the big horse off his stride.

Unfortunately, Big Brown will always be remembered for his feet; his quarter cracks, his special shoes, and now his loose shoe in the Belmont.

Avoiding Lightning Strikes: Staying Safe During Summer Storms

This afternoon I was just about to bring my horses in from a field when a massive thunderstorm blew into the area. Within minutes the rain was falling in sheets, thunder boomed, and lightning rippled across the sky. My first thought was that being out in an open field with two horses was not a particularly safe location. So, I sat in my car for a few minutes contemplating my options and hoping it would blow through. Unfortunately, my horses were not in a place where I could leave them, so after several more minutes, I gritted my teeth, and brought them into the barn. In retrospect, I probably should have waited longer as I didn’t really want to be struck down in front of my 10-year old daughter.

The problem with horses and lightning is not — as you might suppose — that they are more prone to getting struck because of their shoes; it is because they are big and they don’t know that they shouldn’t stand in the middle of a field or under a tree.

Lightning is a giant discharge of electricity accompanied by a brilliant flash of light and a loud crack of thunder. The spark can reach over five miles in length, raise the temperature of the air by as much as 50,000 degrees Fahrenheit, and contain a hundred million electrical volts. If you can hear thunder, you are likely to be within 10 miles of the leading edge of a storm, close enough to be struck by lightning. In fact, many lightning strikes occur under blue skies!

While lightning only kills 5-10 % of the people struck, for animals getting struck is generally instantly fatal. This is because lightning can travel over the surface of the ground (or through the ground) for up to 60 feet from the point of contact. While ground current only affects the feet and legs of a standing person, it is a common cause of death among horses and cattle whose vital organs are in the current path. Death is typically instantaneous; horses have been found with grass still in their mouths.

The best protection from lightning in the barn area is the use of grounding rods. Even trees can be grounded by running a wire from the top down to the ground.

If you are out riding and have access to your trailer, you should load your horse, put the ramp up, make sure the safety chains, ropes, and buckets are not touching the ground and get into your tow vehicle.

If you are riding, you should get off your horse and tie it to a bush (not a tree). Move at least 50 feet away then squat down, balancing on your feet. Curl into a ball and wrap your arms around your knees. Do not lie flat because if the lighting ground current travels through the ground you want it to pass only through your feet and legs. Wait until at least 15 minutes after the storm has passed before you start riding again.

Best advice? Check the weather reports and stay home!

 

More Great Horse Photos

I’m a sucker for great photographs of horses. There’s a great collection of images — professional and amateur — on the Web site for the Equine Ideal: Spring 2008 Photography Contest. Here are some of my favorites. While I’ve always loved photos from Sarah K. Andrew and Wojtek Kwiatkowski there are some new names that I will be watching to see more from.

 

 

Two horses

 

Phar Lap Arsenic Poisoning Confirmed

The mystery surrounding Phar Lap’s death in 1932 in Menlo Park, Calif., has finally been solved: scientists have confirmed that the horse died of arsenic poisoning. Phar LapResearchers Dr. Ivan Kempson of the University of South Australia and Dermot Henry, manager of Natural Science Collections at Museum Victoria, took six hairs from Phar Lap’s mane and analyzed them at the Advanced Photon Source Synchrotron in Chicago, finding that in the 40 hours before Phar Lap’s death the horse had ingested a massive dose of arsenic.

Poisoning had long been suspected in the gelding’s death. His trainer found him suffering from a high fever and in severe pain. A few hours later, he hemorrhaged to death. During an autopsy, it was discovered that his stomach and intestines were inflamed.

Now the only question that remains is whether it was accidental — notebooks kept by Phar Lap’s handler Tommy Woodcock, obtained by Museum Victoria, show the horse was administered tonics and ointments containing both arsenic and strychnine — or intentional: some believe that U.S. gangsters had ordered his death because they feared that he would impact the winnings of their illegal bookmaking operations.

Certainly, the horse’s death has continued to pique interest. In 2000, a prominent veterinarian studied the autopsy reports and concluded the death was probably caused by Duodenitis-Proximal jejunitis, caused by a bacterial toxin. Since the disease, which matches the symptoms and autopsy results, was not identified until the 1980s, veterinarians would not have recognized it in 1932.

In 2006, Australian Synchrotron Research scientists said it was almost certain Phar Lap was poisoned with a large single dose of arsenic in the hours before he died. Another Australian scientist, Dr. Percy Sykes, disputed the theory because arsenic was quite commonly used in those days. He estimated that 90% of racehorses had arsenic in their systems.

Phar Lap was the “wonder horse” of Australia and New Zealand, winning 37 of 51 starts. At the time of his death, he was the third-highest winning stakes winner in the world. He had been shipped to North America to compete in its richest race, the Agua Caliente Handicap, in Tijuana, Mexico, which he won by two lengths.

Phar Lap is lucky that he didn’t race today, when top horses run only a handful of times and early speed is prized. Australian trainer Harry Telford convinced one of his owners to buy Phar Lap at auction in New Zealand base on his bloodlines. When the colt arrived in Australia, he was so unimpressive that the trainer agreed to train him for free, in exchange for 2/3 of his future winnings — if any!
Phar LapPhar Lap came last in the first race he entered, and he did not place in his next three races, confirming the trainer’s expectations. He broke his Maiden in 1929 and later that year took second in the Chelmsford Stakes at Randwick. In 1930 he won the prestigious Melbourne Cup, and in 1931 his career took off: he won 14 races in a row.

The big chestnut gelding is still revered in Australia. There was a movie made of his career in 1983, his skeleton is on display at the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tonqarewa and his taxidermied hide is on display a the Melborne Museum.

Treating the Dreaded Abscess

The first time my horse had an abscess I thought he’d broken a leg. He was standing in his field holding up his leg, refusing to put any weight on it.  I panicked. I called my (then) vet who came out and ran a battery of tests, including x-rays. Then my farrier showed up, snorted, and told me to fire my vet because it was crystal clear that it was an abscess. Ultimately, that abscess burst out the coronet band and left my horse uncomfortable for probably another week. With vet bills, it cost me $400!

Given that experience, you’d think that I would recognize the signs. But no. Yesterday morning when I went to feed my horses, I could tell that one of them was not quite right. It was just the way he was standing. He was resting his right hind and he looked, well, uncomfortable. This horse is very stoic and I just know when he looks pained, he usually is. Of course, a host of scenarios ran through my mind — pulled suspensory, kick, pulled muscle. But there was no swelling, no cuts and he looked sound at the walk. I took him out for a hack to see if he worked out of it, but a few steps at the trot convinced me he was not even close to sound. 

I called my current vet who suggested an abscess based on my description. Sure enough, that’s what it was. He got worse throughout the day, holding his hoof up and refusing to put weight on it. A friend’s farrier was in the area and by paring the hoof he was able to find some red tinted horn, indicating bruising, so an abscess was definitely brewing. 

Hoof abscesses are infections between the corium and the horn. The pus that occurs causes pronounced pain and lameness as the infection grows. Abscesses are caused when bacteria and moisture penetrates the white line, when a puncture occurs (for example, when a horse pulls a shoe and steps on a clip, or as a result of deep bruising.

The infection results in acute and sudden lameness, an increased digital pulse, heat in the foot, and sometimes swelling in the pastern or fetlock area. An abscess surfaces and drains either through the sole of the foot (if drained) or will bust out at the heel or the coronary band.

The standard treatment for hoof abscesses is to:

Locate the abscess using hoof testers to locate the sensitive area.

Drain the abscess. If possible, creating a way for the abscess to drain will result in a smaller hole that will heal more quickly. Typically, the farrier or vet pars the sole of the hoof the pressure from the abscess causes it to burst and the pus drains. At times, there might also be some blood. However, you do not want to dig a large hole in the sole, either. Often if the sole is thinned and you pick up the other foot, the added pressure can cause the abscess to break through, otherwise, you can soak the foot in hot water and epsom salts to soften the sole. Once the abscess drains, your horse should experience immediate relief.

Next, you should clean the hole with a betadine solution and pack the hole (defect) with betadine soaked cotton and then wrap the hoof (or put on a hoof boot) to keep dirt out of the hole.

Soak the hoof for 20 minutes once or twice daily in hot water and Epsom salts for several days, or until the horse is sound. The water can be quite hot. I like to heat it in an electric teapot. You add Epsom salts until no more will dissolve. I like to use a Davis soaking boot as I’ve had no luck at all trying to keep a horse standing with its hoof in a bucket! With a soaking boot, you can put your horse on the cross ties, or even in its stall during the soaking period.

Protect the hoof — and keep it clean — after soaking by bandaging it or wrapping it and covering it with a hoof boot. Here’s a link to a great photo essay on the best way to bandage a hoof. Keep it covered for about a week while the defect heals to keep dirt and bacteria from entering the hoof.

There is some debate as to whether chronic soaking (for several days) is an effective treatment. According to an article by Dr. Stephen E. O’Grady, an equine practitioner and farrier practicing in the Northern Virginia area, there is little documented research on the therapeutic value of soaking a horse’s hoof beyond the first 12-24 hours to localize an abscess:

There is no question that excessive moisture will damage the hoof wall. The more the foot is soaked, the more the hoof softens. The hoof wall quickly deteriorates, the wall begins to flake and separate and the loss of integrity allows it to expand or bend outward. At the same time, the white line width increases and the sole begins to drop and become closer to the ground. As the softening process continues, the horse begins to walk on the sole, creating another source of discomfort. Many times, this will mimic an abscess that has not completely resolved. It is believed that soaking damages the protective barrier on the foot (periople) and the widened sole wall junction thereby allowing additional microorganisms to penetrate and further damage the wall. Over-softening of the foot can potentially weaken it. The softened hoof wall does not hold nails well so it is difficult to replace or maintain a shoe on a chronically soaked foot. 

Chronic foot soaking for an abscess can actually prolong the healing process. In many cases, the pocket resulting from the accumulation of exudate from the abscess will be prevented from draining and drying up as the softened structures of the chronically soaked foot compress the affected area. 

Instead, he recommends applying a poultice.

The poultice provides a warm moist hydroscopic environment which stays in contact with the foot twenty-four hours a day but does not have the detrimental effects of continuous soaking. There are many good commercial poultices on the market. A medicated poultice [Animalintex®] is an excellent first choice when a poultice is indicated. The Animalintex® poultice, made of multiple layers of medication-impregnated cotton sheets, is immersed in hot water, the excess water is squeezed out and the poultice is applied to the foot, covering the ground surface and extending over the coronary band. The poultice has its own plastic outer covering to maintain heat. It is left in place for at least 48 hours. Moist heat applied to the coronary band may also help an abscess to break out spontaneously. 
Another useful form of poultice is a combination of wheat bran and Epsom Salts (2 parts bran and 1 part salts). This poultice is cumbersome but has certainly withstood the test of time. Packing the foot with Ichthammol or a combination of Ichthammol and glycerin is also used frequently with good results reported. 

Whichever poultice is used, it must be held in place with a bandage. An ideal foot bandage is a medium-sized disposable diaper covering the enclosed medication. For more padding, use multiple diapers. For a sweating effect, use plastic-covered diapers and duct tape. For more breathing, use non-plastic covered diapers and gauze bandage. The bandaged foot is protected as well as medicated. A rubber Easy Boot® can also be used for protection, but is difficult to place over a hoof that is bandaged with poultice.

What’s worked for me is to apply a poultice of Epsom salt paste and then putting an air-activated heat pad (like Thermacare) over it. The pad provides low-level heat for 8-12 hours. I then put vet wrap on to hold the poultice in place and cover it with a hoof boot. I have an oversized hoof boot that I use for this application; a hoof boot that fits normally won’t fit over a wrapped hoof. In my experience, this helps the abscess come to the surface. It also eliminates the need for repeated soaking. 

This last time it worked like a charm. Today when I came to the barn, my horse was walking more comfortably.