The horses don't seem to mind the cold, snowy weather
The first night I had Freedom was the last night he spent in a stall. When I came to check on him the next morning, I found that he had weaved so much with his head over the Dutch door that he’d rubbed a bloody spot on his neck. That was it. I turned him out 24/7 and he has been happy as a clam. The only time he stands inside is during the summer, when he wants to avoid the heat and the bugs. But then it’s on his terms: no closed doors.
But that’s not the case for all horses. My friend Suzanne writes in her blog that her mare is unhappy with the turnout situation at her new (temporary) barn:
Poor Sug, she hates turnout (yes, she really does) and here she is out from 8am to 3 in a nice big paddock in a place where she can see everything. Every car, every person that walks the property in her range of vision is a potential staff worker… “Hey you…. yes you, can you not see that it’s time for me to come in… The sun is too bright/dark! The wind is too brisk/quiet. The air too warm/cold. Take me in please! Take me in now!”
And another friend mentioned that her horse used to jump out of his paddock so he could go back to his stall!
When it's warm, I often find them snoozing in the sun.
The four horses at our barn are out in all weather, all the time. They have the option to go inside, but they rarely take advantage of it.
What about your horses? Do they prefer the comfort of a cozy stall or are they happy to be out in the elements?
Before I moved to this barn my horses were turned out maybe 6 hours a day and if the weather was bad, maybe not at all. What is your horse’s turnout schedule like?
Nasal discharge is the most common indicator of choke.
Choking, in horses, happens when their esophagus becomes blocked — usually from bolting their food or from eating very dry food without having access to water. Unlike when a human chokes, a horse can still breathe, but choking can be quite serious. Horses that choke can damage their esophagus and, if the backed up food, saliva or water gets into their longs, they can develop pneumonia.
While I have never seen a horse experience an episode of choke, one of the horses at our barn had a serious incident of choke this past fall. She’s a horse who loves her food and is always in a hurry to eat as much as she can. She got into the grain room and then also got into a tub of hay stretcher pellets. These pellets lodged in her through and got stuck.
What are the signs?
Horses that choke present in different ways.
They may get agitated.
They may extend their necks.
They may appear to be gagging (horses are unable to throw up).
Discharge will likely come out of their nose.
Sometimes you can feel the mass in their neck.
It’s pretty horrifying. And it makes you feel quite helpless.
What you should do when your horse chokes.
The most important thing to do is call the vet. Sometimes choke can clear on its own, in few minutes, and sometimes it will be necessary for the vet to come and help the choke clear. Choke is easier and more successfully treated when it first occurs.
Once the vet is on the way, you should try to keep your horse quiet and calm. Don’t let it eat or drink and avoid exercise.
Sometimes you can help clear the blockage by massaging the neck gently.
Sometimes your vet might suggest dosing with Acepromazine. In some cases it can cause the esophagus to relax enough that the horse can swallow the mass. If that doesn’t work, the vet may try gently dislodging the mass with a tube.
If that doesn’t work, your vet may sedate with Xyline. Once your horse’s head is lowered (as the result of the sedation) they can use a warm water lavage to wash down the impacted feed.
After the impact is cleared, your vet may prescribe antibiotics in case any fluids have been aspirated.
Preventing future episodes of choke
Once a horse has experienced an episode of choke they are more likely to choke again because there may damage to their esophagus. To keep your horse safe from a another episode of choke there are some steps you can take:
Add large rocks to your horse’s grain to slow down their eating
Soak grain or any pelleted feeds before feeding
Don’t feed grass clippings
Avoid feeding dry beet pulp, especially to horses that bolt their feed.
Avoid feeding large chunks of apples or carrots.
As for Curly, our resident food bolter? She has made a full recovery without any serious complications. She gets only soaked feed and all pelleted feed is kept under double lock and key.
Certainly Curly’s experience with choke has changed my opinion about it. I’ve never had a horse that bolts their feed. Mine have all taken their time eating. But I no longer discount the risk of choke. I continue to soak Freedom’s feed and it’s something I plan to continue. It seems a very simple thing to do which can help prevent great distress to my horse.
Has your horse ever choked? What did you do?
Here’s a video that shows some of the symptoms of choke.
Although we’ve had a very mild winter so far in New England, it is winter nonetheless. Saturday night, Sunday and Monday mornings, winter made itself felt with overnight lows in the single digits and daytime highs in the low teens.
How can you help your horse stay comfortable when the temperatures drop? Especially when they drop suddenly? Temperature swings are hard on horses so taking a bit of extra care is important.
Make sure your horse stays hydrated. When water buckets freeze and tanks ice over, horses can become dehydrated quickly. Make sure your horse has access to plenty of clean, unfrozen water. Many horses prefer to drink water that’s been slightly heated. We use stock tank heaters and I also add extra warm water to Freedom’s beet-pulp soaked grain, figuring every bit helps.
To encourage your horse to drink more, try adding table salt to your horse’s grain. Even if you have salt licks available, horses may not be using them enough and adding two tablespoons of table salt can encourage them to drink more.
Feed more forage. Horses heat themselves from the inside out through the digestion of forage. Adding a few extra flakes of hay to their daily regime can help keep them warm. I’ve been very pleased with the slow hay feeders (Nibblenets) that we started using at the end of December because they help the hay last longer during those cold nights. I also add a bit more beet pulp to Freedom’s feed (up to 1 lb).
Blanket appropriately. If your horse has a heavy winter coat, chances are he’ll be fine even in single digit temperatures. If your horse is clipped, is already thin, or it’s very wet and windy, you might want to consider adding a blanket to keep them warmer. When temperatures drop below 15 degrees, I break out Freedom’s heavyweight Rambo blanket.
Freedom wearing his heavyweight Rambo Wug. I particularly like the fact that it has a high neck, to help keep him warm.
Make sure they have access to shelter. Our horses live out 24/7 but have access to their stalls. That way, if the weather is bad, they have the option of taking shelter. Interestingly, they rarely go inside during the winter but seem happiest out — even during blowing snowstorms.
Keep in mind that horses are more bothered by the heat than by the cold. If your horses are well fed and have either a natural coat or a blanket, the most important thing to give them is plenty of water.
I replaced our metal hay feeder with two Nibblenets. The bags have 1.5" openings which contain the hay quite well. They limit waste and keep the horses busy much longer.
I hate hay waste. It’s like throwing dollar bills onto the pasture and watching your horse crush them into the ground. Of course, there’s a lot about owning a horse that reminds me of that!
But hay waste is even worse because it also creates work. It’s bad enough that the paddocks need to be cleaned every day. When you add in racking up wasted hay, there goes my riding time!
For the past several years I’ve used a metal hay feeder in the paddock. It worked reasonably well at keeping the hay out of the mud but it had some issues. The most problematic was that it was increasingly unstable and I worried that at some point a horse would knock it over and get hurt. So when it finally broke I decided to look into some other options.
This time I wanted more than just a container for the hay, I wanted something that would slow down consumption, at least a little bit, so that the hay we fed would last a bit longer. Horses digestive systems are designed for continuous eating in small quantities. While I believe in getting at least close to free choice hay as a way of keeping their digestive systems happy, I don’t believe they have to eat large amounts continuously.
The Slow Grazer Feeder is also available in a DIY kit
There are several designs for slow feeders on the internet. The Slow Grazer is a nice design and if you are marginally handy, they will even sell you a DIY kit. This is actually a great idea because shipping a feeder like these could cost almost as much as the feeder itself.
Lots of companies sell small hole haynets but I wanted something that didn’t have to be hung on a fence or attached to a tree.
Using this I narrowed down my selection and based on size, availability and durability ratings, chose a Nibblenet. You can read my whole review on Tack Guru, but let me say briefly, that they are a real success.
You can read my Nibblenet review on Tack Guru.
Although I’ve read that some horses need to be transitioned to the small hole hay feeders, our horses figured it out in less than a minute. I did fluff the hay up the first time and pulled some out of the holes, but they were chowing down without any problems.
I’ve had them out now for about two weeks. They are easy to fill, hold a good amount of hay and are very well made.
I don’t miss the hay rack at all. In fact, I’m considering buying a smaller Nibblenet for my trailer.
The last couple of weeks have been crazy busy. Usually at this time of year my clients withdraw into a quiet hibernation and we start planning for the new year. This year, there’s been no stopping.
I’m not complaining — work is a good thing! Especially as it coincided with some freezing weather that left the ground rock hard and lumpy. Although I love where I board my horse, it’s weather like this that makes me long for an indoor that has soft, even footing.
Today, the sun came out and the temperatures are going to hit the low 50s. I had planned to wrap up my last proposal and go for a nice long ride. But, it’s never that simple. When I arrived at the barn to feed I found Freedom was three-legged lame. Based on the heat in his foot and the digital pulse, my best guess is that he’s brewing an abscess, brought on by bruising form the uber hard ground.
It has crossed my mind to put his hoof boots on him a few days ago. He looked a bit ouchy when he was navigating the paddock. Now I wish I had.
I’ll still spend my time at the barn. There’s lots of clean up that can be done now that the ground has thawed. And I can give Freedom a massage while I’m soaking his foot. But I can’t help but be a bit annoyed that my long anticipated ride will have to be deferred until he’s feeling better. I sure hope that the warm weather lasts until then!
Read my full review of www.FeedXL.com at Tack Guru
Recently I’ve been taking another look at what I feed Freedom. I’m not riding as much now that hunt season is over and my client work has piled up. It’s quite a change from hunting season where I fed him lunch a lot of days just to keep the weight on him. But it’s also gotten colder and despite his blanket, I know how easy it is for him to drop weight.
To help figure out a good Winter feeding regime, I turned to www.FeedXL.com, an equine nutrition software program. I’ve found it very helpful as I was able to try a number of different options and evaluate them by nutritional profile and calories. The only thing that’s missing from the program is non structural carbohydrate levels, which is why I’m putting together the chart in this post.
Certainly in my opinion, it was $20 well spent. Most importantly because it revealed a few nutritional holes in the regime I was considering.
So, how do you come up with a feeding program for your horse?
The average horse produces 9 tons of manure every year
Okay, so how many times a day does the average 1,000 pound horse poop? According to the UMass Extension Center for Agriculture, it’s between four and 13 times, depositing approximately 35 pounds of manure. Add to that 6-10 gallons of urine and you’re looking at 50 pounds of waste per day!
Reading that study made me very, very glad that our horses now live outside. In fact, unless it’s very hot or rainy, we don’t put shavings in the stall any more. Just as well because soiled bedding is heavy, adding another 15-20 pounds of waste. I guess that every time we clean stalls we should look at it as a workout instead.
No matter where you pick it up, the sheer amount is staggering — each horse produces about 9 tons of manure per year and 3.5 tons of urine. If you add in bedding, you can count on moving 12 to 14 tons of waste per stall. That’s a pretty good reason to encourage them to use the great outdoors.
Certainly it’s a sisyphean task to keep our pastures clean. Every time I go to the barn I remove at least one wheelbarrow of waste, sometimes two. And yet every day when I return it looks as if I were never there.
Is filling up your hay net part of your trailering routine?
I’ve always shipped my horse with hay — and usually with either shavings or straw on the trailer floor. However, recently I was reading a forum post where several people indicated they did not trailer with either hay or shavings. The main reason was that hay and shavings can blow around while the trailer is moving and, at least in most trailers, the horse is not able to stretch or lower his head to clear his respiratory tract.
Of course on the “pro” side of feeding hay is that it keeps your horse occupied and gives their stomachs a buffer if they are the nervous type. When I got Freedom he was terrible in the trailer — if the trailer stopped for even a minute he would weave so badly that the whole trailer shook. I remember the day I brought him home I stopped to get lunch and the trailer was parked outside a McDonald’s. It was shaking and swaying like crazy and I noticed people giving it a wide berth.
Once he started to eat hay I knew he was calming down. Now he’ll scarf down a whole bag of hay (I use a hay bag rather than a hay net) on the way to and from a hunt (about 40 minutes total). With him, I can imagine that not having hay might make him fret.
Floor coverings are a trickier issue. My big Trakehner, Kroni, once fell in the trailer giving me a heck of a scare (Trailering safety: a near miss). We were trailering back from the end of the season hunt and it was cold out. Best I can tell, he peed in the trailer and the shavings froze. He slipped, fell, went under the dividing bar and stood up on the other side. While I had shavings in the trailer, I didn’t have that many. I was very, very lucky that he didn’t get hurt! Now I generally use old hay/straw to absorb pee. I think it’s a lot less dusty, too.
One suggestion that I read was to ship your horse with a fly mask on to prevent debris from getting into their eyes. I think that’s an excellent idea which I think I’ll adopt.
So what does everyone else do? Hay or no hay? Hay bags or nets? Shavings or not? Let me know!