Choosing a bit depends on your horse, not just your hands

Loose ring single jointed snaffle

This loose ring single jointed snaffle was the only bit I had for my horse, Bogie. Although technically it fit Kroni, he would accept a steady contact in it.

For years I heard “people” say that the bit didn’t matter, it was the rider’s hands that made the difference. Although there is some truth to that (poor riding can make even the mildest bit an instrument of torture), it’s not quite that simple.

Okay, sometimes it is.  I bought one bit for my horse, Bogie — a German silver loose ring snaffle. The old kind with a single joint. I rode him in dressage, xc, and stadium in that bit. I hacked in it and galloped in it. I never had any problems.

Then I bought Kroni, my Trakehner. He had some “training” issues when I bought him  that made him reluctant to take contact with the bit. He had been ridden in draw reins and liked to float behind the bit. I tried single jointed snaffles, double jointed snaffles, mullen mouth snaffles, thick bits (supposedly mild), loose rings, fixed rings, Mikmar bits, Myler bits, you name it and I probably tried it. He was always busy in his mouth.

When you hear people complain about how difficult it is to find a saddle for a particular horse? That’s how I felt about bits for Kroni.

Finally, an equine dentist explained to me that he had a low palate and a thick tongue — there wasn’t much room in his mouth for a bit. Armed with that piece of information, I chose a thinner, mullen mouth style bit. He also vastly preferred fixed ring bits like an egg butt or a baucher, which stayed quieter in his mouth. He did okay in those bits but was never great. When I finally tried a bitless bridle (sidepull) he gave a huge sigh of relief and we never looked back. Of course, that worked for me because I stopped competing and started hunting. In the hunt field no one cares what kind of bit you use as long as you can stop.

My experience with him made me much more curious about how different bits work in a horse’s mouth. Which ones have more tongue pressure, or bar pressure. Why double jointed bits have become the rage. And how certain bits work to address specific issues. Over the next few months I’ll go through my bit box (which has a lot more in it these days than my loose ring snaffle!) and talk about why I bought it and how it worked.

I’d love to hear from all of you about what bits you use and why.

A good place to start understanding bitting, is a series of videos from Dale Myler, of Myler bits. I certainly learned a lot from watching.

Here’s the first in the series.

Adjusting the ubiquitous flash noseband correctly

Bridle with a flash noseband

This photo shows a horse wearing a bridle with a properly adjusted flash noseband.

It seems to me like it’s almost impossible to buy a bridle without a flash attachment any more, especially a dressage bridle. I guess I’m dating myself, because I have a clear memory of when the opposite was true: the flash was a piece of equipment you added if it were needed, but most horses did without. Now it seems like a fashion accessory

In fact, “way back when” we mostly used drop nosebands (which fell out of fashionable favor sometime when the ice age was receding). Apparently they are ugly.

I wouldn’t have a real problem with the flash noseband except for so many people don’t fit it correctly.  I think people forget that the idea behind the flash was to help stabilize the jaw and keep the bit from slipping down. You are not supposed to cinch it so tight that it leaves marks on your horse’s muzzle!

Flash nose band too low

On this bridle, the flash is too low. It is pulling down on the noseband and is too close to the sensitive areas near the horse's nostrils.

Most often I see flash nosebands (and also figure 8 bridles) adjusted so they are too low — when this happens they can interfere with your horse’s breathing.

To adjust them correctly you need to start by having the cavesson adjusted so that the noseband sits 1-2 fingers below your horse’s cheekbone.

Then adjust the flash strap so that is snug but so you can still fit two fingers under the horse’s jaw.

When a flash strap is too low, or cranked too tight,  they exert continuous pressure over the sinus area and can even cause nerve damage.

Flash nosebands can be helpful — I’ve used them on occasion when I had a horse that was opening its mouth and bracing against the bit — but they are not a substitute for training. True relaxation and acceptance of the bit cannot be achieved by strapping your horse’s mouth shut; often resistance in the mouth is caused by the rider.

So if you have to use a flash, make sure that’s adjusted in a way that won’t hinder your horse and think about what you want to accomplish by adding it to your bridle.

 

 

 

Having problems with moldy tack?

Moldy Saddle

This is just one of my saddles that started sprouting mold.

We had so much rain over the summer and early fall that I found a fresh crop of mold almost every time I came to the barn. I was cleaning my tack constantly but could barely keep up with it. Even with a de-humidifier running in the tackroom, the mold was getting an upper hand.

Here are some of the tips that I’ve found help:

  • Stop using glycerin saddle soap. Glycerin is a humectant and holds moisture — giving mold a great growing environment.
  • Always clean mold from your tack in an open location (preferably outside). As you clean, you are sending the mold spores into the surrounding air. You don’t want them to land on another host.
  • While washing off mold use a clean towel and wash it after you’ve done.
  • Avoid using harsh chemicals on your tack — even though they might kill the mold spores, you can damage the leather. I will admit to one exception. Years ago I opened my tack trunk to find my custom chaps dripping in mold. I was at the point of throwing them out when my trainer suggested that I put them in
    Leather Therapy products stop mold in its tracks

    You can read my review of Leather Therapy products on TackGuru.com. Just click on the picture.

    the washing machine with either Pinesol or Lysol. I tried it and they came out fine. They have also NEVER had a single spot of mold on them since.

  • Covering your saddle with a clean towel.

I found that there was only one product out there that will really help prevent mold and those are the Leather Therapy products. I’m not trying to sound like a commercial, but I’ve been using them now for about two months and the difference is amazing. No more mold!

A cure for numb toes

Super Comfort Stirrup Pads

I've een using the Super Comfort Stirrup Pads now since the end of the summer and they really live up to their name.

The older I get, the more a long ride hurts. My knees I keep happy with jointed stirrups and longer leathers, but this year my feet started to go numb. Not during every ride, but longer rides with shorter stirrups did it every time.

This summer I started to think about replacing my stirrups — I remembered that years ago, when my husband has a Western saddle, I had endurance stirrups on it. They had wider footbeds that were also padded. They were so comfortable!

There are very few traditional English stirrup irons that offer you a padded, wide bed. I also already own jointed stirrups and was loathe to trade them in as I think they are key to keeping my knees happy.

You attach the pads to your irons using cable ties.

You attach the pads to your irons using cable ties.

While browsing at SmartPak I came across the Super Comfort Stirrup pads and bought one set to try. They are easy to install (you remove your existing pad and wrap the Super Comfort pad around the iron, securing them with three cable ties) and I found that they are 1) more comfortable (they make the footbed wider and give a more cushiony feel) and 2) are MUCH more secure. The surface is very grippy and I’ve found that even in wet weather, my foot doesn’t move at all.

I hunted with these stirrup pads all fall and they definitely have helped. I never lost my stirrups or felt my foot slip. The numbness is much improved — actually, I realized how much better my feet feel with these stirrup pads when I switched saddles for a hunt and rode in regular stirrups. It was a long hunt — about 3 hours — and my feet were completely numb. I think I’ll have to buy these stirrup pads for my other irons, too.

It’s hard to hunt without your bridle

Freedom in his borrowed bridle

Freedom looked sharp in his borrowed bridle.

I’m usually very organized during hunt season. I keep essentials in my trailer and I have spares of most of the truly important things.

This morning, I broke with my routine and paid the price. When I looked in my trailer tack room this morning I found that my bit wasn’t clean enough. So, I took it down to the tackroom, cleaned it, and left it hanging on the hook. Imagine my surprise when I pulled up at the hunt (after an hour’s drive) to discover it was missing in action!

I did actually have a spare bridle, of sorts, in the trailer. However it wasn’t ideal — the bit was an old Myler ported snaffle that I’d bought to try on Kroni, the bridle had no cavesson and it was far from clean.

Luckily, when I went begging I found someone whBlessing of the houndso had not one, but two, extra bridles. She thought she was driving two people to the hunt and had loaded their tack before discovering they couldn’t make it. One of them fit Freedom perfectly and I was saved.

Tthe great open fields

The great open fields are a big attraction of this territory.

Of course, it’s been awhile since I’ve hunted him in a plain snaffle and with no rein stops my martingale was out of the question, but we managed fine. In situations like this I always have to remind myself that I can, and indeed, ride my horse. That I ride in a snaffle most of the time anyway, and that if I can’t ride without a martingale I have larger problems. He knew right away that I had marginal stopping power but he was a good boy and we never really got rolling.

It wasn’t a hunt I wanted to miss – it was our annual Blessing of the Hounds in a beautiful open territory that where we ride infrequently.

Riding through the Apple Orchard

The hunt ended with a ride through an apple orchard.

It wasn’t a fast hunt but it was so pleasant riding through the open territoryWell deserved treats! It was a “blessing” to be out there because this area suffered tremendous damage from the Nor’easter storm and hunt members and volunteers put in a ton of work to make the

trails accessible. Trail maintenance is one of the often overlooked benefits of having a hunt in your area. Old North Bridge Hounds invests a lot of time keeping the trails cleared and the jumps maintained and safe.

Do not pull back

Freedom wearing a neckstrap

My favorite new piece of equipment? An old stirrup leather made into a neck strap!

Intuitively it’s pretty obvious that when you are riding toward a jump you should not pull back. It puts your horse behind your leg, it restricts their forward motion and it prevents them from using their necks effectively. If you are always restricting your horse coming into a fence, eventually it will stop wanting to jump.

When I had Kroni, it was pretty easy to not pull back.  He was a horse that didn’t get quick to fences. You put your leg on and left his mouth alone. Easy peasy.

Freedom is not quite so simple a ride. Sometimes he flips his head. Sometimes he gets quick, sometimes he starts to bounce instead of going forward, and sometimes he comes into a fence as rhythmical as you could want. The trick is achieving the latter without resorting to pulling back.

I spent a lot of time this summer practicing the things that help us achieve a good approach to a fence. I’ve worked on my canter, letting him be forward but not rushed. I’ve kept my upper body back to keep from giving him any indication that he can go faster. But the most effective tool I’ve found is the neck step (thanks, Corinne!).

A neck strap gives you something to pull back on without touching your horse’s mouth. It helps you balance both yourself and your horse and can help your horse be steadier. A neck strap is different from holding onto an “oh crap” strap on your saddle, or even onto your martingale/breastplate strap as it sits further up on your horse’s neck.

How/why does it work? I think it’s a combination of steadying your hands (thereby giving your horse a safe place to go) and creating a reflex reaction by exerting pressure at the base of the neck. Linda Tellington-Jones has long advocated the use of a neck ring as a riding tool because it has calming qualities.

My neck strap is made from an old stirrup leather which I tied off with cable ties to keep at the right length. It’s become a standard piece of operating equipment and I miss it when I forget to bring it along.

And just in case you think that neck straps are for “beginners”, lots of advanced event riders (think William Fox-Pitt and Corinne Ashton, among others) use them!

 

 

Riding treeless more safely with Sensation E-Bar Stirrup base

Freeform  closed ring

I love my Freeform saddle but I didn't like the closed ring attachment for the stirrup leathers.

I’ve had my Freeform treeless saddle for about five years and have always really loved it, except for one thing: the way the stirrups attach. The Freeform comes with a closed loop attachment. This means that unlike a conventional saddle (which uses bars) if you fall and catch your foot in the stirrup, it won’t release.

Of course, there is a solution to this: safety stirrups. However, I love my jointed stirrups and I’ve yet to see safety stirrups that also work for my knees. So, I’ve been riding using the Freeform EasyFit leathers which attach under the seat using a velcro base. I liked them because they reduced the bulk of the buckle under my leg but I always was a bit concerned about the closed ring.

Several months ago one of them broke. It’s a crummy design — the leather itself is very sturdy, built around a synthetic core. The weak spot is in the attachment to the ring: it’s is (or shall we say, was) nylon webbing and it gave out. After that, I put the saddle away while I figured out what to do next.

The ebar from Sensation Saddlery allows you to use webber style leathers safely.

The E-bar stirrup base from Sensation Saddlery allows you to use regular stirrup leathers safely. I like webber style leathers because there's no bulk under your leg.

Finally, I came across the solution: Nickers Saddlery makes an e-bar stirrup attachment with a velcro base and a standard stirrup bar for their Sensation saddles! The moveable stirrup base is one of the best things about the Freeform and Sensation saddles because it means you can position the leather in the most natural place for your conformation.

It’s the same velcro base that attaches to the Freeform and it allows you to use traditional stirrup leathers by slipping them over the bar. I like using Webber style leathers because there is no bulk under your leg. This is a great product because you can use your existing leathers (no need to buy the $120 Freeform EasyFit leathers) and you are safer — if you fall and catch your foot in your stirrup, it will release.

Freeform saddle

I've enjoyed riding in my Freeform again.

I’ve really enjoyed riding in my Freeform saddle again. Now that I’ve fixed the safety issue, I ride in it for hacks or when I’m schooling on the flat. It’s a very comfortable saddle and I like the fact that I can really feel Freedom’s back. The amount of “feedback” that I get through the saddle is amazing.

FYI — not that many U.S. dealers carry the e-bar base. I was going to order mine directly from Nickers and was a bit put off by the shipping costs from Canada. Through the Treeless Saddle forum on Yahoo I found that www.foresthorse.com carries them. Mine was $41 delivered.

In the Saddle with Leila (from Hermes)

Click on the "In the Saddle with LEILA" icon

Click on the "in the saddle with Leila" icon.

Check out this very cool animation of saddle designs from Hermes.

Start by going to http://lesailes.hermes.com/us/en/ and click on the saddle icon.

You then choose the “surprises” tab.

Some of the saddles are very cool and the music is great.

Cool saddle animation from Hermes

Watch the whole animated series to see all the variations!