Wool vs. foam vs. CAIR: One case study

Although I’ve owned many, many saddles over the years (Goldilocks and the 31 Saddles ) all but three have been flocked with wool and checked by a saddle fitter twice a year.

What’s the difference?

The material that fills the panels of the saddle are critical to saddle fit and comfort.

Adjusting the wool in a flocked saddle

Wool flocked saddles are adjusted by adding or removing wool through slits in the panels. It’s a good idea to have saddle fit checked regularly since wool can compress over time or your horse can change shape.

Wool Flocked

Traditionally saddles were flocked (stuffed) with wool. The wool is soft enough so that it conforms to they horse’s back over time. If it compresses too much, it can be removed and replaced; and if your horse’s back changes over time, a fitter can add or remove wool to adjust the fit. While a wool flocked saddle can’t be made to fit if the tree is the wrong size or the panels are the wrong shape, there is a lot of flexibility. The disadvantage is that wool saddles need to be checked more frequently to see if they’ve maintained their fit. The wool may move in the panel or compress. I, for example, have my saddles checked twice a year by a saddle fitter and those fittings can run $75-$250 and any adjustments are done on site.

Foam Panels:

When foam paneled saddles were first introduced, they were generally cheap saddles and the foam didn’t hold up well over time — it compressed to the point where it offered no padding and then disintegrated.

The new generation of foam is more sophisticated and durable and is used by many of the high end saddle manufacturers. It is made to automatically adjust to fit a wider tolerance of shapes, to offer cushioning and shock absorbancy, and to “spring back” to it’s original shape. The idea is that unlike a wool flocked saddle, which usually is fitted to a specific horse, a foam paneled saddle can be used on many horses. The disadvantage is that if your horse changes shape beyond the scope of the panel’s tolerance, the only ways to make it fit are to buy new panels — a company rep will remeasure your horse and the company will replace the panels for $400-$1000). Or, you can do a foam to wool conversion — this can be tricky since some of the foam paneled saddles have very thin, close contact panels.

CAIR Panels

Inside a CAIR panel

This is what a CAIR panel looks like when you cut it open.

CAIR panels technically filled with air, but it’s a bit more complicated than the balloon image that invokes. Air is captured at atmospheric pressure in an open-celled foam and sealed in the Air Panel. Once the air panel is welded the open-celled foam becomes irrelevant, as it is the air trapped in the panel.

Like foam panels, CAIR panels are designed to accommodate use on different horses — it is resilient and does not permanently conform to a horse’s back the way wool does.

Some people don’t like the feeling of CAIR: they find it to be “bouncy.” Some people say their horse’s don’t like the CAIR panels. I’ve also heard of CAIR panels that deflate. I haven’t had a problem with any of those aspects of it; so far the CAIR panels on my saddle have worked fine.

CAIR has many of the advantages of foam (fits many horses, requires fewer fittings) but the system is exclusive to saddles made by Bates/Wintec.

In addition to the CAIR panels some of the Wintec saddles also have pockets where a fitter can insert wool to fine tune the fit.

My experience

When I bought my Stackhouse saddle I was over the moon. I had found a used version of the exact saddle I’d always wanted. Since I have quite long femurs, it’s hard for me to find saddles with extra forward flaps on the used market. To find one in a Medium Wide tree as well? It was my Christmas present to myself in 2010. And I had heard positive things about the resiliency of the newer foam panels.

The saddle did not disappoint. It is incredibly well balanced — it fits my leg to a “T” and makes me feel very secure. My leg falls exactly where it should without any effort. It also fit Freedom very well. Or, it did until this Spring.

Over the past month and a half, since I started jumping Freedom again, I could tell that his back was a bit sore. Not terribly sore, but a bit too tight and a bit too sensitive. I have several saddles so I rotated them until my saddle fitter could come to the barn — I figured if one saddle was bothering him,  I could keep each of them from getting too much ride time.

Wintec Pro Jump

My Wintec Pro Jump still fits him very well and also provides me a balanced ride. But it’s a bit like going from the sublime to the ridiculous. And my knees are right at the edge of the flap.

Sadly, it was the Stackhouse that was causing the problem. Strangely enough, my other saddles still fit just fine (I have a County jumping saddle that’s a tad wide but works with a Mattes pad, an Austrian A/P saddle and a Wintec Pro Jump). The first two are wool flocked and the Wintec is CAIR.

Looking at Freedom, I can’t say that his back has changed much. He’s in very much the same fitness level as he was last fall and his weight is very similar. He’s about 12 so is at an age where you don’t expect to see a lot of changes in a horse that’s in consistent work.

You would think that the foam panels could accommodate the minor changes in his back since the saddle has fit so well for the past year and a half. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case.

I discussed it with my fitter and decided that it wasn’t worth trying to shim it and pad it into fitting. Foxhunting is a discipline that takes us over quite varied terrain and you need a saddle that fits (you don’t want it to slide about or become unbalanced).

My conclusion: If I’m going to buy another expensive saddle, I’m going to choose one with wool panels. The Wintec saddles (and their Bates counterparts) are not so expensive that it’s a tragedy if they don’t fit after awhile. Foam panels are fine until they don’t fit. And then they’re not.

Since I enjoy saddle shopping, it’s not a big deal for me to sell the Stackhouse. I’ll hunt in my Wintec for the time being and keep my eye out for the next saddle to try. And I will pass my Stackhouse along to the next lucky person who has a horse that’s the right shape for it.

What have been your experiences? What type(s) of saddles do you ride in? Are you pleased with them?

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Is your horse an off-the-shelf fit?

All Purpose saddle

Freedom fits a M/W saddle tree. Most "off the shelf" saddles fit him fine.

Saddle fitting can be a real nightmare. Sometimes you feel like Goldilocks: it’s just a bit to narrow or a bit too wide, or maybe that panel shape is a bit too flat . . . or a bit too curvy.

Seriously, for some people finding a saddle that fits their horse is worse than finding a flattering bathing suit!

My last two horses, Kroni and now Freedom, have pretty standard backs when it comes to saddles. The last time my saddle fitter came to visit he looked at three of my saddles and congratulated me: they all fit without any adjustments. In fact, even though Kroni was a Trakehner and Freedom is a Thoroughbred, I was able to have Kroni’s saddles refitted to Freedom without much difficulty.

So, what can you do to find a well fitting saddle?

Probably the best thing you can do is find an independent saddle fitter — someone who doesn’t rep a particular brand — and ask them to show you what works, and what doesn’t work, for your horse. Let them show you different ways that a saddle doesn’t fit and also how to recognize when it does. Make sure you know where to place a saddle (many times I see them placed too far forward, where they impede the movement of the scapula) and learn how to use the new shimmable saddle pads (they are lifesavers if your saddle is a hair too wide).

Are custom saddles worth it?

As far as I can tell, the jury is still out on the value of a custom saddle. People either have wonderful experiences . . . or really bad ones. I’ve read way too many sad stories on horse forums about the $5K saddle that was supposed to be custom and which didn’t even come close to fitting their horse.

While it’s tempting to order a saddle that is measured just for your horse, I also am loathe to buy a saddle that I can’t ride in. Unless, of course, they are such a good deal that I figure I can resell them :) . I’m pretty bad about buying saddles on eBay and luckily the ones that I didn’t like, I resold mostly for a profit. After all, even when a saddle looks like it fits, your horse should get the final vote. Some horses are stoic and won’t object to a saddle that doesn’t fit like a glove; others (and I owned one of these drama queens once) make it very clear that the are not happy

Should you buy a new saddle? Or used?

There’s also the dilemma of used vs. new. It’s not such a problem for me as I can only afford the saddles I want when they have been already broken in by their previous owner; but if you buy a new saddle you need to understand how a saddle will fit after it’s been ridden in for awhile — the new foam panels are pretty good at accommodating small variations in shape — but wool flocking may compress over the first few months and need some adjustment. Other wool saddles come from the factory like an overstuffed sofa and need a bit of wool removed to make the fit more comfortable.

And if you do have one of those Goldilocks horses, you might just want to consider a treeless saddle!

What kind of horse do you have? One who fits the “off the shelf” sizes or a princess and the pea type who needs a saddle that’s “just right.”

How often do you have your saddle fitted to your horse?

Fortune's saddle

Fortune's saddle was fitted in the early spring but by mid May, her back had changed shape and it was slipping back and rocking.

I read a forum posting recently which stated that Jochen Schleese recommends you have your saddles professionally fitted every season. Debate on this topic got heated. Some people didn’t believe in saddle fitting at all; others felt that a saddle once fitted properly, shouldn’t need to be adjusted that frequently.

The answer is probably somewhere in the middle. If your horse is in consistent work and isn’t at either end of the age spectrum, chances are he or she won’t change shape too dramatically. Generally, the Saddle Dr. visits my barn in the early spring and in the fall, right before our two hunt seasons. So far, that’s worked for me and for Kroni (when I had him) and Freedom. Yes, their saddles sometimes need to be “tweaked” but often I’ve added a shimmed pad if that was necessary and the adjustments have never been drastic.

But that’s not always the case. In my barn is an older horse (I believe she’s 19). Fortune’s saddle was fitted, along with Freedom’s, in late March or early April. As she’s aged her withers have become more pronounced and her saddle needed adjusting. By mid May, it became evident that her saddle no longer fit. It was sliding back and it was starting to rotate over the pommel. The result was a sore back. A month of hunting had changed her shape enough that her saddle no longer was comfortable (Freedom is also leaner and more muscular but his saddle still fits fine).

How often do you have your saddles fitted?

Saddle fitting and shoulder movement

Saddle placed too far forward

This saddle is placed too far forward on the horse's shoulder and will restrict its movement. It also looks like it's a hair too narrow but until it's put in the proper place, it's hard to tell.

I often see people riding their horse in saddles that are either placed too far forward or which are too restrictive over the horse’s shoulder.

If the saddle restricts the shoulder movement it can cause your horse to be short strided and move with a hollow back. Eventually, this can lead to back pain.

Here’s an excellent video that demonstrates the range of motion that a horse has in its shoulder and relates it to saddle fit.

When saddles don’t fit: bridging

Saddle fit - Bridging

This illustration from http://www.sustainabledressage.com shows what happens when a saddle "bridges."

Finding a saddle where the shape of the panels and tree match the shape of your horse’s back, is not as simple as choosing narrow, medium or wide.

One of the problems that you can encounter is “bridging.” This is when the front and back of the saddle make contact with the horse’s back, but there is a gap below where the rider sits. This means that the pressure is concentrated at the front and the back, and not spread evenly across the horse’s back. In other words, it’s a recipe for a sore back.

How can you tell if your saddle is bridging? If you do a visual inspection of the saddle and look down the pommel area you will see daylight under the panels. However there are other ways to check for bridging.

Reading sweat/dirt marks on your saddle pad.

Saddle Pad that shows the effects of bridging

Start with a clean saddle pad and a not so clean horse. After riding, check take a look at your pad. You want to see no dirt along the channel (over the spine) and an even distribution of dirt under the panels. Very dark areas mean there is more pressure; light or clean areas mean there is less pressure. Looking at this saddle pad you can see that there is no dirt on the center of the pad. This shows that the panels are not making contact with the horse's back in the middle of the saddle as a result of bridging. (Photo from therefinedequine.com).

Thermographic imaging

Thermographic images show heat. In the context of saddle fitting, heat correlates with pressure.

Thermographic imaging

This image shows the saddle is putting more pressure on the front and back of the saddle, which indicates bridging. (Photo from Saddlefitter.blogspot.com)

A few caveats about bridging

Two things to keep in mind about evaluating bridging in saddles is that

  1. Sometimes sweat patterns that indicate bridging may be caused by a horse that is hollowing its back. That could be caused by saddle fit but it may also mean that the horse needs to be encouraged to engage its abdominal muscles and raise its back, and
  2. A saddle that might bridge slightly when a horse is standing still may fit fine when the horse is in motion and it raises its back.

So, if you suspect your saddle is bridging, call a saddle fitter!

A glimpse into the saddle making process at Black Country

Part of the saddle making process at Black Country SaddleryIf you don’t already read Kitt Hazelton’s blog, Saddle Fitting: The Inside Journey, you should! It’s a wealth of information about the importance of saddle fit and other saddle-related information.

Here’s a fascinating look into how a saddle is constructed. More specifically, this article is about how Black Country saddles are built. It was contributed by Nikki Newcombe, Sales Manager (and SMS QSF), Black Country Saddles.

These saddles are crafted, rather than just “made.” When you see how much labor and skill goes into the construction of a high quality saddle you begin to understand why they are costly . . . and wonder what short cuts were taken to make some saddles so, well, cheap (I use that word specifically, rather than inexpensive precisely because of what it implies).

My early Christmas present

My most important Christmas present this year was coming home from the hospital in time to spend the holiday with my family instead of the hospital staff . I was delighted to get sent home yesterday after my colic episode, having recovered without the dreaded surgery. Okay, so my holiday dinner will most likely be clear fluids, but they taste much better when you are at home.

Stackhouse jumping saddleI did have one more gift at home.  Most equestrians know this kind of gift. It’s the one you buy for yourself because either no one would think of buying it for you or, as in my case, no one could believe that I needed another saddle. Even I didn’t know I needed one. I try to stay off of eBay but occasionally I scroll through the saddles looking for one that is just such a good deal that I can’t, in good conscience, resist.

I haven’t found one of those for a long time. But a few weeks ago a David Stackhouse jumping saddle caught my eye. I’ve always read good things about his saddles. That they are well balanced, comfortable, durable, kind to the horse’s back, etc. The only thing I couldn’t get my mind around was the price. The custom saddles start, I believe, around the 4K mark and go up. Not for me.

But maybe this one was. How often do you see a Stackhouse saddle the right size (17.5″ with an extra forward, extra long flap in a MW tree) in a no reserve auction that starts at $.99? I have such a long femur that in most forward flap saddles my knee still goes up over the edge when I shorten my stirrups to jump. Mostly, I just live with it.

In cases such as these I resist the urge to get into a bidding war. Using a sniping service I put in my best price (one where I thought I could resell the saddle for a tidy profit if it didn’t work for me) and forgot about it.

So it was like an early xmas present when I discovered it was mine for a mere $715 plus shipping. I felt like I’d won the lottery.

Even better, when it arrived it was, well, perfect. It is exactly how I’ve heard them described. It fits Freedom. It fits me. And the balance on it is amazing. I felt like my riding had improved exponentially! Okay, I only got to ride in it twice, for a total of about half an hour before I coliced, but it felt great. I hopped over a few small fences and it felt even better. I looked down and realized that my knee was right where it should be — in the center of the knee roll, nowhere near the edge! I can’t wait until I’m well enough, and the ground is soft enough, to take it for a real spin.

 

 

Saddle fitting for women

Although women now dominate most equestrian pursuits in the U.S., it’s taken a long time for saddle manufacturers to catch up with the gender shift.

English saddles were originally made for men to ride in the military or the hunt field. During World War I, that trend which was solidified, causing most saddles to be designed for men.

The problem is that men and women have some significant skeletal differences, particularly in regards to the shape of the pelvis. Women tend to have a pelvis shape that is wider and more shallow than the male pelvis which means that women typically have seat bones that are further apart than those of men. Women also tend to have a longer femur in relation to the their lower leg.

So, put a typical female rider in a saddle designed for a man and you have a mismatch. The seat will be too narrow, the stirrup bars will be too far forward and the rider will be fighting against the saddle to maintain her position.

The videos below are from Schleese Saddlery which has made fitting female riders one of their specialties.

Learn more about how

A female friendly saddle is a saddle that:

1) Has a seat which supports the female pelvis and gives a base to the points of the pelvis or seat bones (ischial tuberosities. The seat of the saddle meets/joins the seat bones and is firmly underneath them. In narrow twist saddles the female is sitting more on her crotch than her pelvis. She is literally teatering in the middle with no support.

2) Has a twist or waist to the seat which tapers off slowly allowing the hip joint and upper thigh to move freely.

3) Supplies the proper amount of rise to the pommel which will alleviate friction on the pubic symphasis or soft tissue area of the crotch.

4) Places the stirrup bars under the hip joint for proper biomechanical line up of the leg under the torso.

5) Provides cushioning in the seat for extra comfort and give, tender seat bones, long hours sitting and menstruation discomfort.